How to Lay Laminate Flooring
October 31, 2013.
To get a classy look in the home at a nice, manageable cost, one of the best things that anyone can buy is laminate flooring. While giving the effect of expensive and luxurious traditional wooden options, this easy-to-install option is not only aesthetically pleasing but also remarkably cheap, given the longevity it can often have in the home.
Firstly, buy the best and thickest laminate wood flooring you can afford, as it will last longer. Only certain ranges are suitable for bathrooms and kitchens, so bear this in mind. To work out how much flooring you'll need, calculate the area of the room and then add ten per cent for wastage.
What you will need:
Packs of Adhesives (unless you have a "click-together" offering)
Fitting tool & edging block
1) Lay the underlay
Firstly, take all inward-opening doors off their hinges. Vacuum the floor to remove grit and dirt and fit underlay boards or sheet underlay; this dampens noise and provides a cushioned effect to make the floor more comfortable to walk on. Leave opened packs of flooring in the room of choice for 24 hours so boards can acclimatise to the humidity.
2) Put the first board down
Plastic spacers at 60cm intervals need to be placed along the longest straight wall. From here, lay the first row with the groove side facing the wall, building out of the corner. Ends of the boards are tongued and grooved and only a bead of glue is needed along the top of this; click-together flooring doesn't need this. Mark the last boards with a try square and saw them to the necessary length.
3) Stagger cut-offs
Starting the next row with the off-cut of the board from step two and aim to stagger end joints of rows by at least 30cm. Push the ends of the boards together as you work across the room. Adding more plastic spacers along the two side walls, force each board together by tapping the edge block against the grooved side of every board.
4) Be mindful of pipes
For pipes, drill a hole around 5mm larger than the pipe's diameter, cut the segment out and fit the board around it, placing the segment at the back; you need room for movement and expansion.
5) Final steps
A decorative moulding over the expansion gap will cover the edges of the floor, should skirting boards not suffice; after this, fit a threshold over the edge of the flooring at doorways.
Finally, you should be fine to refit the doors and move everything back in, safe in the knowledge that it's a job well done!